The concert was scheduled to begin at 2:00pm. As the room began to get warm, we were all wondering when it might actually start. People were still coming in and the seats were filled. it became standing room only for those that arrived close to curtain. Two o'clock turned into 2:10 turned into 2:20. Then I noticed an entourage of people entering from the lobby. The U.S. Ambassador showed up and then another man, an Iraqi. I was not sure who this was. They shook hands with many VIPs sitting up front...and then the found there seats.
A few moments later....... all the lights went out. And I mean all the lights. Some people thought that the performance was going to start but I made the observation that even the stage lights were off. We were somewhat nervous and not sure what to do. It was very quiet in the ballroom after being filled with conversation. There were about 400 people waiting to see what happened next. After about 3 minutes, some lights slowly turned back on and everything was back to previous levels after another couple of minutes. There was a problem with the power, I am sure. I breathed a sigh of relief and made sure I knew the quickest way out of the doors.
Another five minutes went by and the musicians walked in from the lobby. There were about 25-30 people. I thought it was a rather small group. An Iraqi took the podium on stage right. he introduced the U.S. Ambassador who spoke a few words. They were translated in to Arabic. Fortunately this was brief...everyone was waiting to hear music. The Ambassador wrapped and the Iraqi sat at the front with a viola while a conductor entered from backstage.
The music began and I soon realized that the musicians on stage were only playing stringed instruments. I though this was odd; there were no woodwind or brass instruments and no percussion. The first four pieces were from Iraqi composers. The second four would be from American composers, for a total of eight. The first piece was about 8 minutes. I honestly didn't care for it. It seemed somewhat hollow and poorly arranged....almost like it needed more work or needed to be practice more.
To my surprise, more musicians entered the auditorium after this piece ended. i could now see that this was the other half of the orchestra that I felt was missing. The viola player now became the conductor for the second piece. This second Iraqi selecton was beautifully done. It was rich with sound and diversity and contained many Iraqi traditionally sounds......similar to what you might hear in the soundtracks of old films about Arabs and the desert, like Lawrence of Arabia. The third piece had a change of conductors again. The conductor for the first "song", now sat frontstage to play an oud. This is a guitar-like instrument that is pear-shaped with strings and fretts. This piece was quite lively at times. The final Iraqi piece contained many Iraqi traditional sounds. it was a good conclusion. I wish I could describe more about the music, but it was a "kind-of-had-to-be-there" experience. I am not even a novice on Iraqi music, much less Iraqi classical music.
They announced a 15 mintute intermission before they started the American set of pieces. Many people dashed to the lobby for a cigarette break and it quickly became saturated with smoke. I will say the bathrooms were elegant. Marble everything. The toilets were automatic, large mirrors in front of the sinks, beautifully designed. I made my way back to my seat and stood looking around at the diversity of people. It felt surreal. I could feel the "danger" aspect but knowing that the Ambassador was there, made me feel better.
Everyone satdown and the orchestra performed some American music. The four composers were Aaron Copland, Charles Cadman, Duke Ellington and George Gershwin. Even though you may not have heard of Cadman, you have heard his music. Each piece had a different composer. All four pieces were awesome.
There was a bit of a scare during the third piece. The lights went out again, although this time the emergency lights came on the band tried to keep going but the conductor stopped them. We waited for about minutes and some power was restored but not enough for the orchestra to see. There was a loud burst of applause for the band and the lights. I saw some men rush in from the lobby wearing suits...... they went to a panel and shortly thereafter the lights started turning on. One exception wasthe rear of the stage was still inthe dark. Those musicians moved towards the front of the stage and the crowd cheereed again in encouragement. The conducor called orderand they started the piece over.
After it ended, they brough in an electric piano for Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blues. there was call to fix the stage lights but went unanswered. They began the music and after a few minutes, while they were playing, the rear stage lights turned on.
As they finished Rhapsody in Blues, they received a standing ovation at the conclusion. Flowers were given to the conductor and he recognized the musicians. The U.S . Ambassador spoke again and he emphasized the importance of the arts and that it brings back the culture that Iraqi citizens chersh. The Iraqi Minister of Arts also spoke to thanks everyone in attendance and that they are working on more arts performances.
Despite the power going out, the performance was spectacular. They have a way to go to be at the same level as some of the best American orchestras, but they are on their way. I would be willing to see them agian.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
At the Al Rasheed - part 1
Well, needless to say, I went to the performance. I didn't want to look back and regret not going. It is a historical occasion and and sets another precedence for normalcy in Baghdad.
I went with about 5 of my co-workers, although only one had ever been to a symphony performance. There were lots of people at the shuttle stop ready to go. Many state department employees and Air Force personnel. Hardly an Army folks, read into that what you will. ;-) The ride over was uneventful but we did have to go through several checkpoints. I finally go to see the other side of the convention center. The only side I have been able to see thus far is the closed bombed-out side. It's quite large and looks like any other convention center in the US except for some subtle cues of a mosque-esque design.
The shuttle approached the Al Rasheed in yet another compound and thru another checkpoint. Security is tight. Just beyond the checkpoint is a defunct water fountain with bronze statues. One is a woman and the other a horse. I'm not sure of the significance.
We wlked up to the hotel thru these huge glass doors that opened like sliding doors, automaically. It was a bit of a shock since we don't see much of this kind of technology being implemented here. As soon as you enter the doors, you enter a lobby with marble floors and walls. It's quite cavernous. there is now a little shop here to the right with rugs strewn about on the floor for sale. We follow the crowd down a long corridor; to the right is an atrium with granite fixtures, benches, plants, outdoor lighting fixtures. You can tell that this hotel was the pride of Iraq. It is still in use but to get accomodations here requires permissions beyond my comprehension. A few hundred feet down the corridor, a line formed to the right. We stood in line before I realized there were only Iraqis in line. They were well-dressed, suit and ties, dresses, and other formal clothing. Again, it was similar to a crowd attending a symphony performance in the states. We exited the line and walked to the left. As it turned out, the line for the Iraqis was so they could pass through a metal detector and other screening. As Americans, we could bypass all this and just show our DoD card.
I felt weird...and uneasy. I understand that the ones likely to bring a bomb into the area are Iraqi extremists and precautions had to be taken. But this is their country and this is an event in the arts. I hope that we are on the road to an environemnt where this kind of thing can be eliminated.
So after the security checkpoint, the corridor opend up to the right into a smaller lobby with a large wall of art. I have a photo of this. The left sidde of the corridor contained doors for the auditorium. I walked into the auditorium and it is a large ballroom with a stage on one end. Chairs have been placed facing the stage. There is a front section, which is already filled. the second 2/3 of the seating is split into a left and right with a large walkway between them. At the front of the walkway are video cameras on tripods. I counted 9 cameras in addition to the roaming ones. We found setas in several places since we were a large group. We were about 45 early but the place was filling up fast. It was only slightly cool so I guessed that it was only going to et warmer.
The audience wa a mix of Iraqis in formal attire, soldiers in their uniforms, American civilians in business casual clothing, as well as some Iraqis running around shooting video and photos. There were some interviews being conducted by various Iraqis.
I went with about 5 of my co-workers, although only one had ever been to a symphony performance. There were lots of people at the shuttle stop ready to go. Many state department employees and Air Force personnel. Hardly an Army folks, read into that what you will. ;-) The ride over was uneventful but we did have to go through several checkpoints. I finally go to see the other side of the convention center. The only side I have been able to see thus far is the closed bombed-out side. It's quite large and looks like any other convention center in the US except for some subtle cues of a mosque-esque design.
The shuttle approached the Al Rasheed in yet another compound and thru another checkpoint. Security is tight. Just beyond the checkpoint is a defunct water fountain with bronze statues. One is a woman and the other a horse. I'm not sure of the significance.
We wlked up to the hotel thru these huge glass doors that opened like sliding doors, automaically. It was a bit of a shock since we don't see much of this kind of technology being implemented here. As soon as you enter the doors, you enter a lobby with marble floors and walls. It's quite cavernous. there is now a little shop here to the right with rugs strewn about on the floor for sale. We follow the crowd down a long corridor; to the right is an atrium with granite fixtures, benches, plants, outdoor lighting fixtures. You can tell that this hotel was the pride of Iraq. It is still in use but to get accomodations here requires permissions beyond my comprehension. A few hundred feet down the corridor, a line formed to the right. We stood in line before I realized there were only Iraqis in line. They were well-dressed, suit and ties, dresses, and other formal clothing. Again, it was similar to a crowd attending a symphony performance in the states. We exited the line and walked to the left. As it turned out, the line for the Iraqis was so they could pass through a metal detector and other screening. As Americans, we could bypass all this and just show our DoD card.
I felt weird...and uneasy. I understand that the ones likely to bring a bomb into the area are Iraqi extremists and precautions had to be taken. But this is their country and this is an event in the arts. I hope that we are on the road to an environemnt where this kind of thing can be eliminated.
So after the security checkpoint, the corridor opend up to the right into a smaller lobby with a large wall of art. I have a photo of this. The left sidde of the corridor contained doors for the auditorium. I walked into the auditorium and it is a large ballroom with a stage on one end. Chairs have been placed facing the stage. There is a front section, which is already filled. the second 2/3 of the seating is split into a left and right with a large walkway between them. At the front of the walkway are video cameras on tripods. I counted 9 cameras in addition to the roaming ones. We found setas in several places since we were a large group. We were about 45 early but the place was filling up fast. It was only slightly cool so I guessed that it was only going to et warmer.
The audience wa a mix of Iraqis in formal attire, soldiers in their uniforms, American civilians in business casual clothing, as well as some Iraqis running around shooting video and photos. There were some interviews being conducted by various Iraqis.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra
We just received an e-mail invitation for A Concert of American and Iraqi Classical Music presented by the American Embassy and the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra for July 26. This sounds interesting and I would like to go. However it is being held at he Al Rasheed Hotel, which is on the outer edge of Green Zone and is off-limits to most KBR personnel. Only those with specific mission purposes can go there, like carpenters, plumbers, electricians, security or others who have work to do in those areas. One of the reasons it was made off-limits is it's proximity to the red-zone but more importantly, the fact that there was a suicide bomber that got in and killed several people about 4 years ago.
We have been given permission to go and there is a special shuttle that will take us there. I want to go but am I am a little reluctant. I'm going to think about this and ask around for some more information. Stay tuned.....
We have been given permission to go and there is a special shuttle that will take us there. I want to go but am I am a little reluctant. I'm going to think about this and ask around for some more information. Stay tuned.....
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Meeting Barrack Obama
Okay, so I didn't exactly meet him, but I did shake his hand, along with a crowd of other people. He came to Baghdad as part of his tour of the Middle East and they scheduled an appearance at the US Embassy in the Presidential Palace.
I got there about an hour and a half before he was scheduled and there were already about 300 people in the main lounge. There is a small permanent stage there and people were jockeying for position. No one knew which entrance he would use. It's not like there is a "backstage" or anything. The room doesn't even have a front or back but it is HUGE. There is a Green Bean cafe (like Starbucks) in one corner, a large customer service desk for MWR on one wall, a computer lab with 24 stations in another corner, 2 dedicated chess tables, a small library of books, newspapers and magazines, an wood-enclosed cardio room that will fit about 30-40 people in another corner, as well as about 40 round tables and chairs, and about 30 sofas.....a very large room.
As te crowd waited, more and more people gathered and I found myself situated in front of the stage, house-right, kind of in front of one of the big doors where I thought he might walk in. There are two long corridors running inside the palace, each connecting at opposite ends of the room and I though mycurrent location would be a good choice. He was scheduled at 9:00pm and as time drew near, the crowd grew to approximately 600 and most started to push towards the stage half of the room. We waited some more and 9:20 rolled around. Then I saw many people out in the hallway starting to take pictures aiming down the long corridor. We knew the appearance was imminent.
As soon as he approached a view where you could see him in the corridor, cameras went up over the heads of everyone there. It was like a media circus....only without the actual media. There was one camera crew with him and I assumed it was part of the media team traveling with him. There were digital camersa and camcorders everywhere. Flashes and flashes and flashes. I managed to use my digital camera as a video camera since it was going to be hard to get a good snapshot. The lighting was not the greatest for cameras and the delay with the flash in my camera would mean I would lose the shot or I might get a part of an arm or head in the photo.
He shook some hands on the way in and got to the stage. He spoke for about 7-8 minutes and gave an opportunity for th etwo senators traveling with him. The U.S. Ambassaodor to Iraq also appeared and said a few words. Obama thanked everyone for being there and serving the country, from soldiers to airmen to sailors to marines to state department employees to contractors. Afterward, he shook hands for about 25 minutes. It was madness after he made his remarks. Everyone rushed the stage. The Secret Service had already set up some stanchions around the stage to help keep the crowd back. People were pushing forward, reaching over others while some people got caught up in the chaos and just wanted out. I remember a lady who started to have a panic attack as she tried to retreat against the surge of people. She was okay. I made my way towards the middle and was able to catch him. I caught his eye for a moment as he grabbed my hand. He repeatedly said "Thank you, thank you for your support. Thank you for being hear." Not everyone was so lucky....security was a big issue and he also had another scheduled apperance or meeting.
As he made his way around, people cycled to the stage and then backed away. He slowly made hs way back to the door from which he came, which, by the way, was the door I chose (yea me!), and he walked down the hallway...the Secret Service right behind. The room was loud from people talking about the encounter. People were sharing pictures from their cameras, what the got and what the missed or blurred. Many people exchange e-mail addresses to get more of the photos, presumably ith them in the photos.
I sat down and with a few of my co-workers to take a breath. The experience was invigorating yet exhausting....and it only lasted minutes! Obama made many stops in Baghdad and Iraq for that matter. We'll see how things end up.
I got there about an hour and a half before he was scheduled and there were already about 300 people in the main lounge. There is a small permanent stage there and people were jockeying for position. No one knew which entrance he would use. It's not like there is a "backstage" or anything. The room doesn't even have a front or back but it is HUGE. There is a Green Bean cafe (like Starbucks) in one corner, a large customer service desk for MWR on one wall, a computer lab with 24 stations in another corner, 2 dedicated chess tables, a small library of books, newspapers and magazines, an wood-enclosed cardio room that will fit about 30-40 people in another corner, as well as about 40 round tables and chairs, and about 30 sofas.....a very large room.
As te crowd waited, more and more people gathered and I found myself situated in front of the stage, house-right, kind of in front of one of the big doors where I thought he might walk in. There are two long corridors running inside the palace, each connecting at opposite ends of the room and I though mycurrent location would be a good choice. He was scheduled at 9:00pm and as time drew near, the crowd grew to approximately 600 and most started to push towards the stage half of the room. We waited some more and 9:20 rolled around. Then I saw many people out in the hallway starting to take pictures aiming down the long corridor. We knew the appearance was imminent.
As soon as he approached a view where you could see him in the corridor, cameras went up over the heads of everyone there. It was like a media circus....only without the actual media. There was one camera crew with him and I assumed it was part of the media team traveling with him. There were digital camersa and camcorders everywhere. Flashes and flashes and flashes. I managed to use my digital camera as a video camera since it was going to be hard to get a good snapshot. The lighting was not the greatest for cameras and the delay with the flash in my camera would mean I would lose the shot or I might get a part of an arm or head in the photo.
He shook some hands on the way in and got to the stage. He spoke for about 7-8 minutes and gave an opportunity for th etwo senators traveling with him. The U.S. Ambassaodor to Iraq also appeared and said a few words. Obama thanked everyone for being there and serving the country, from soldiers to airmen to sailors to marines to state department employees to contractors. Afterward, he shook hands for about 25 minutes. It was madness after he made his remarks. Everyone rushed the stage. The Secret Service had already set up some stanchions around the stage to help keep the crowd back. People were pushing forward, reaching over others while some people got caught up in the chaos and just wanted out. I remember a lady who started to have a panic attack as she tried to retreat against the surge of people. She was okay. I made my way towards the middle and was able to catch him. I caught his eye for a moment as he grabbed my hand. He repeatedly said "Thank you, thank you for your support. Thank you for being hear." Not everyone was so lucky....security was a big issue and he also had another scheduled apperance or meeting.
As he made his way around, people cycled to the stage and then backed away. He slowly made hs way back to the door from which he came, which, by the way, was the door I chose (yea me!), and he walked down the hallway...the Secret Service right behind. The room was loud from people talking about the encounter. People were sharing pictures from their cameras, what the got and what the missed or blurred. Many people exchange e-mail addresses to get more of the photos, presumably ith them in the photos.
I sat down and with a few of my co-workers to take a breath. The experience was invigorating yet exhausting....and it only lasted minutes! Obama made many stops in Baghdad and Iraq for that matter. We'll see how things end up.
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